My 19 Hour Layover in Helsinki, Finland
On my way back to Seoul from Edinburgh, I had a 19 hour layover in Helsinki with Finnair. Yes, I chose this flight plan! I wanted a chance to see Helsinki no matter how brief and I’m so glad I did. Here’s what I got up to:
I arrived at Helsinki Airport around 10:50pm and got right on the airport train. It is located between Terminal 1 and 2 and can be found by following the Rail/Train signs! You can buy your ticket on the platform or by using the app which I found to be really helpful especially because it gives you updated time tables. You can download the app here and pay with visa/mastercard. You can take both the I and the P train and it will be heading to Helingfors/Helsinki.
I stayed at an AirBnb (this one) next to Central Station so I was in bed before midnight. I set my alarm for 7:20am and was out the door again by 7:45am. My first stop was back to the train station to drop off my luggage in a locker. It’s 6 euro for 24 hours for the biggest locker, and they’re located in the basement level. Just follow the signs for a briefcase and key. You have to pay in coins but there is a machine that breaks down your bills.
Free from my luggage I headed out in search of breakfast. I walked towards Uspenski Cathedral and visited the cafe underneath called Johan & Nyström which was suggested by one of you! The coffee was amazing and the breakfast sandwich was just what I needed (lettuce, sprouts, a hard boiled egg, and some pepper on a thick slice of brown bread) That cost me about 7 euro in total.
The cathedral didn’t open until 9:30am so I just looked around the outside and then headed back into city center for a library marathon. First up, the University of Helsinki Library.
This library made me want to go back to school so badly. The architecture was stunning and it was already packed with students! The huge windows and window seats made me want to curl up with a good book.
I then went right next door to the National Library of Finland which is more for research purposes and has some very old books. It was much quieter and less busy but the interior is breathtaking!
By the time I was done with the libraries, Helsinki Cathedral had opened its doors across the street. I took a look inside and saw that there was going to be an organ recital at noon and made a mental note. The inside of the cathedral is purposely bland but the outside along with Senate Square is stunning.
From there I headed to the other side of city center, making a short stop at the train station again looking for a restroom. I didn’t want to pay 1euro to use the one there so I crossed with street to the public toilet in the subway station. It wasn’t anywhere near the filth of NYC but is certainly isn’t a floor I’d suggest eating off of ;)
After that ordeal I visited Kamppi Chapel, or the silent chapel. It is soundproofed and made for silent reflection and wow, was it quiet. I was the only person in there at the time and I couldn’t hear a thing. Definitely a wonderful break from the bustle of the city outside its walls.
After the chapel I walked up to Helsinki’s new pride and joy, the Oodi Central Library. It is most definitely worth the hype, with amazing design and tons of resources for library users. The entire second floor was filled with machines like laminators, book binders, sewing machines, and even 3D printers that you can rent for free. The top floor had a huge outdoor deck and a sloped floor that kids were using as a slide. There were books of all languages, DVDs, boardgames, video games, and more!
But by this time my stomach was actually growling so I retraced my steps towards the city center and headed towards the markets. I walked through Esplanadi Park to Market Square and then to Vanha Kauppahalli, the food market. All the restaurants served the dish I was looking for so I just had to walk around and find the cheapest one. Soup Kitchen won with the famous Finnish salmon soup (Lohikeitto) and unlimited bread for 10.50 euro. The soup was AMAZING. It was baked salmon and potato in a creamy dill and chive broth. Absolutely my new favorite food.
After failing to finish my bowl (I really tried!) I wandered through the market where people were selling mushroom and berries I’ve never seen before along with fish products right off of their boats. By this time it was organ practice time and I was entering a food coma so I happily took a seat in the church. The recital was about 15 minutes and then I had time for one more stop.
One of my followers suggested the cafe Ihana Kahvila Baari and I’m so glad they did. It was such a cute place and clearly a local favorite. I had peppermint tea and a Finnish cinnamon roll, a korvapuusti. I think it has cardamom or something in it because its a touch spicier than the usual cinnamon roll and I loved it!
After sitting in the cafe for a bit it was time to head home. I’m a worry wart about getting to the airport so I went quite early, I think I could have stayed about 30 minutes more if I was feeling really brave.
At the airport it takes a while to walk to the check in desks and the security line was really long for me. After security you walk into the duty free shopping area but don’t forget that you still need to do immigration! The line can get sort of backed up so don’t shop down to the last minute before your flight :)
Then I boarded my flight to Seoul and got there in under 8 hours. Amazing.