Outside of Seoul: Two Days in Jeonju, Korea

Last week, I decided to visit a town I hadn’t been to in about two years. It’s famous in Korea for its history, its food, and its beauty: Jeonju.

I took the bus from Central City Express Bus Terminal and about three hours later I was in Jeonju. From the bus station I headed to Hyeonhaetan (현해탄), a cafe that did nothing to wake me up like I needed. It was so relaxing with great music, incense, and a friendly owner. Here’s their instagram! I mapped out the rest of my day in the warm cafe and then headed towards Jeonju’s Hanok Village.

The hanok village is a very touristy area, but there is still a lot to see and learn there. One such spot is the Hanji Workshop (전주전통한지원) where you can see people making paper in the traditional Korean way and even buy some paper crafts of your own to take home.

After grabbing some fried cheese from one of the hundreds of street food stalls in the hanok village (Jeonju is know for its ‘cutting edge’ street food haha!) I went to one of my favorite spots, Chungnyeon Mall (남부시장청년몰). My husband had found it when he was visiting Jeonju once and we went together back in 2017. It’s an area of Nambu Market that’s hidden on the second floor and has lots of little shops and eateries. Unfortunately the tapas bar we went to in ‘17 is gone but in its wake there was a sushi bar and gelato shop!

The place I wanted to eat at was gone (it was actually right in front of my face and I didn’t see it but that’s a different story. If you want a make your own bibimbap sort of place, it’s here at 순자씨 밥줘!) so I headed back to the hanok village for an overpriced but delicious meal.

After dinner, I walked around the block to my favorite cafe in Jeonju, Jeonmang (전망). You have to take an elevator to the fourth floor and you get an absolutely stunning view of the hanok village below. I got there just in time for the sunset and it was magical!

I walked back to the Cheongnyeon Mall for some gelato at Today Too, Gelato (오늘또젤라또) which was excellent. The cafe gets bonus points for having pictures of the owner’s poodle plastered all over the interior :) Then I headed to bed!

I started my last day in Jeonju by visiting Jeonju Gyeonggijeon, where you can find the only remaining portrait of King Taejo, the founder of the Chosun dynasty. There is also a structure built for keeping government logs, a photography gallery, homes of those who tended to the shrine, and more! All the information is posted clearly in English and it’s just a gorgeous place. I definitely suggest the portrait gallery to check out the few but impressive royal portraits!

That morning was a cold one, so to warm me up I had brunch at Veteran (베테랑), a place specializing in two types of noodle dishes. The one I got and the one they’re most known for is kalguksu, a noodle soup. In Seoul your typical kalguksu comes with an eggy broth with some green onion and maybe some squash or potato, but it’s typically a pretty bland dish. In Jeonju, this dish is filled with spices and herbs that makes for an absolutely delicious dish. It’s not spicy, just very flavorful! This place is a popular spot so try to avoid it during peak lunch hours. I was there at 11am on a Wednesday :)

Before I slipped into a noodle-induced food coma, I walked around the block to Kyodong Dawon (교동다원), a traditional tea house. It’s open every day 11am-10pm but closed Tuesdays. The two boys running it were really sweet and tried to explain everything in English but you really don’t need to know much ;) The most popular tea here is yellow tea/hwang-cha (황차). If you’re in a group of three, they typically ask you to order just one type of tea and share a pot, and for solo people you get a teeny tiny pot but unlimited hot water. I sat there for about an hour just taking in all the details of the interior. It’s filled with plants and traditional wooden furniture so it’s basically my dream home.

I couldn’t stay in the tea house forever, so I headed back up towards the east end of the hanok village to Omokdae (오목대) where you can get an incredible view of the village below. When I came here in April the entire structure was filled with people relaxing in the warm weather but on a January morning it was pretty empty.

My last stop was Kaekridangil (객리단길) a shopping area that is a little more of a local haunt than the tourist central that is the hanok village. It’s filled with the shops you’d typically find in Hongdae or Myeongdong in Seoul, with a spattering of vintage shops and cafes. It’s fun to just wander around the area and see what Jeonju has to offer. I made a quick stop at Unfiltered (instagram), a minimalist cafe with a view of the river, and then hit one more place before my bus home.

Last but certainly not least, I went to O.O.B (instagram) which is a cafe by day and a pub by night. I got their famous mini donuts (you have to buy them in packs of 4 but she gave me an extra one) and they were honestly delicious. I took three and a half of them home but after a three house bus ride I only had one donut to offer to Kurt haha! The owner has a little dog and the overall atmosphere of the place was really welcoming and cozy. I’m glad they were open in time for me to stop in! I then took the bus to the Express Bus Terminal and made my way home. For a few more places to visit in Jeonju, check out my post from a few years back when Kurt was my tour guide HERE!